One Year Japanniversary - Daily Life, Doctor Visits, Ikea Opening, Hokkaido Part II
Not an uncommon sight - just out front of our apartment. Beautiful.
Kanpai! We busted out the Yamazaki 12 year for the occasion.
The most significant news for us is that we feel really settled and we are continuously marveling at how miraculous that seems as we are in a place so very different than home. October 19th, 2017 was our one year mark for arriving in Japan. December 1, 2017 - one year since moving into our apartment in the Yagoto neighborhood. We have now spent more of our married life living together in Japan than in America – my wanderlust side absolutely LOVES this. Long enough where we feel almost like Seattle is vacation and Japan is home. Kinda twilight zone-y.
This experience of having a settled life in a very foreign land is exactly what I wanted to experience at some point in my life. After getting settled in my career in Aerospace and especially after getting married I had written it off as too unlikely to work out. I have lessons to learn in dreaming bigger, evidently. There are only a few big gut-driven explicitly clear objectives I have had arise in my life where my head could not resolve the need rationally and this experience living abroad was one of them. Sometimes I just want things and can’t put words to it (I am learning a trick to life is to really trust my gut). Other gut desires have been driving a manual car (I knew before I ever learned and I have had manuals since 2002), my trip to Asia in 2011-2012, and moving to a new city after college (which I did – Missouri to Seattle). I still don't know the reason for the need to live abroad in Asia and maybe I never will, but we are having a great time and I have no nagging feelings of gut instincts ignored.
Justin and I in front of the neighborhood castle. The original was destroyed in an air raid by the Americans in May 1945. 1959 it was rebuilt. Strange to be standing in a building destroyed by the very country I came from in a time of peace.
"Hatchii" is the Nagoya city mascot - a "shachihoko". See below for explanation.
A "shachihoko" (half tiger, half fish) statue which adorns the top of the Nagoya Castle - it is to protect the wooden structure from fire by spitting water out of its mouth. Only after we visited the castle did we understand our cities mascot (see above).
I love buying chicken in bulk! ... Seriously. My life is not an Anthony Bourdain show everyday.
Everyday Life Stuff
The biggest wave of feeling settled and connected has arisen in around December. On one hand, we have done a lot of traveling, but on the other hand, my daily life in Nagoya (especially mine) was feeling a bit "fish-bowly." I work and go to school online and have not been very involved in any expat activities. I do Japanese lessons weekly and am involved with the local chapter of the American Chamber of Commerce and the Women in Business Committee there. I accredit the good feeling of happily living here to the summer being over and getting outside more and also to my feeling of comfort of driving on the left hand side of the road to have rounded the bend. Starting out, the narrowness of the road, the windy, complicated nature of the streets made driving and navigation a team effort. Some time later, driving myself around has gone a long ways to feeling integrated in the community. I have lost whatever feeling of embarrassment mostly I have with struggling with the language. I know the basic daily phrases for all interactions we do repeatedly comfortably and everything else I am not ashamed to whip out my google translate app and decipher. I have a little secret. In Japan, more people than you will ever realize speak and understand English. It usually works out well because I am happy to bust out my Japanese and I am sure I am slaughtering it... and that is the key. They quickly see they can't be more embarrassed about their English than I should be about my Japanese. This melts away their intimidation and within a minute we are piecing together an understanding from our shared bits of each other's language.
Dear Peacock Hot Water Dispenser, I love you. Til death do us part.
We have not only been getting by but loving the big and small things Japanese society has to offer in daily living as well as the western things that we enjoy back home. I must admit I am enjoying this mastery of daily life far more than I would have expected. There is a gap in our day to day due to the language barrier that prevents us from ever expecting to be able to do anything with guaranteed ease (so out of the gate our expectations are usually lower). The simple inability to deal with anything complex prevents us from complicating things and can often provide a nice simplicity to life. We take what is easily available and leave it at that. Our comfort level has increased and we try more and more. Not expecting certain success like we do in America with our native language, any success here feels like a small victory. I have grown a strong bond with my automatic 24/7 water heater for making origami coffee and my rice cooker. I have resolved to never be without either of these appliances for the rest of my life, no matter where I live.
Japan Domino's is better than American Domino's. You can take the American's out of America but we refuse to part with our Sunday pizza.
I have big plans to get a Japanese toilet and Japanese bath tub wherever Justin and I settle. Having a bath tub only for the water to cool down in 15 minutes seems completely asinine to me. I reach over my shoulder and hit a dial that reheats the water to my choice of temperature. Cold toilet seats are just cruel! My actual food consumption isn't too different from the US. The only daily changes being I love fried egg on rice with soy sauce for breakfast. And I love that kake no tane mix with drinks (the rice cracker mix with peanuts). Cottage cheese here is very different – salty, dry and really tasty! It appears to be a cooking ingredient rather than a stand alone food. Our fish grill in our apartment remains in pristine condition. Unused. We have continued our Sunday pizza and wine nights with the only exception we get pizza delivered because our combo microwave / oven is too small to do pizza. Dominoes here is GOOD. We have found a nearby-ish wine outlet and discovered they give rainy day discounts. Costco has an English cheddar we love. We stock up there every couple of months. The “Vivino” app is a real help to read up on wine reviews with the simple photograph of a label.
KAWAI!! (Cute!) @ the local grocery store. Cute things are every where in Japan. This grocery also has a small tasting counter. Some of the older locals will be sitting here sipping wine looking like everyday royalty. They will turn around with their Asian red-cheeks-a-flaming and try out their best boisterous "HELLO, HOW ARE YOU?!" when they see us on our way in to do grocery shopping. The windows of local "serious" businesses are lined with stuffed animals. It is just how they do here. Stuffed animals and cartoon characters don't stop when you reach a certain age. I don't have to hide my stuffed animals when friends come over here.
Doctor Appointments
The medical system here is also interesting. This is the side you don't get to see of a country when just vacationing (unless something goes wrong), and I find it a really neat insight into daily life. I have found an incredible family care physician to follow up on some minor thyroid things after leaving the US. He speaks English (was married to an American for 40 years, who has passed away) and is one of the kindest souls I have ever met. You simply show up during office hours and wait. I almost never wait more than 30 minutes. No appointment. I needed an ultrasound and he did it there on the spot. I got a prescription and it is down the hall 10 feet - on average a 5 minute wait. He sent me to a specialist who was literally across the street in the same day. Also no appointment and a wait of about 30 minutes. Blood work done there. The largest bill was less than $100, paid on the spot. No gigantic, "sorry/surprise insurance doesn't cover this" bills showing up months after the visit, like a sucker punch. The gynecologist doctor was a bit different. I mistakenly assumed the doctor would be a female – they almost always are in the US. Another assumption based in our cultural differences without even realizing it (even the hair stylists here are mostly male!!) I was surprised to find it was a male – he appeared to be surprised and a little irritated that I had a few questions about some results I had. The hierarchy between him and his female nurses was fascinating to me. This place did require an appointment and I felt a bit like a farm animal. Not as much of a bedside manner. (A side note, the female doctor I saw a few months later was similar in mannerisms and the way she interacted with me… The strong women here are STRONG). I sat waiting for my appointment outside of a room, watching women go in and come out about 3 minutes later. I assumed they were getting weighed and a nurse was checking them before we go to see the doctor somewhere else in the building. They don’t weigh you here at all and it turns out that is how long the entire annual checkup takes. The land of efficiency doesn't waste time in yearly annual checkups, either. The majority of the time changing into the gown and back out. Thirty seconds to walk to and sit in a weird electric chair (reminds me of the cartoon "The Jetsons") that hoists you up and yanks your legs into what I will call the "examining position" high in the air while the doctor does the examination standing up. Very awkward and ... yeah. Farm animal-ly feeling. No small talk. I think in hindsight, the doctor may have been irritated with me for tripling the time of my visit unknowingly – 3 minutes tripping over myself changing and putting on the exam slippers/gown, 3 minutes asking questions, and the 3 minutes for the actual appointment. However the equivalent of less than $6 USD cost of the exam more than made up for this. Greased lightning!
Outlet malls ain't my thang. They are the same everywhere apparently. However, we can get our wine here easily and so we go. Free shipping to our house so we don't have to lug it to the parking lot. Rainy day discount of 5%.
Nothing says "bank here" like a bunch of stuffed animals!! (Bank of Tokyo Mitsubishi - UFJ)
Ikea comes to Nagoya!
'Ikea' is pronounced "ee-KAY-ah" here. My Japanese teacher didn't understand what I said when I pronounced it "eye-KEE-uh". The small space furniture has an exceptional market here in Japan.
I remember before moving here, I googled Ikea Japan only to find Ikea just outside of Tokyo. Slightly sad. I knew we'd want to finish whatever little odds and ends we needed for furniture/decor/daily life and it would have been nice to be able to go to Idea. So I was super happy when an Ikea ad for a new Ikea near Nagoya came up on my Facebook account. Ikea is a fun outing no matter where you are. (Justin might beg to differ). They have all of the same stuff and it was fun to experience the excitement with the Japanese locals... This included a very orderly (and very long) line facilitated by the white-gloved parking lot helper staff unique to Japan. There is no crowding or cutting to the front here to get in. It was a bit of a relief to just be able to by a cheap, nice looking light for the living room. We don’t shop for fun and can easily find ridiculously expensive things or cheapish shabby looking things, but nothing in between. I think this is why America is so popular for shopping. It is a lot easier on the middle-ground level.
Look how happy he is with his "hotto doggu"!
Hokkaido Part Deux 2018 – Snowboarding, Onsen in the snow, Cocktails, Best Ramen and Soba of My Life, Yoichi Whiskey Distillery
Last year Justin and I headed up north to the famous ski resorts in Hokkaido. Beeline right back this year! Last year was Furano, a more quiet, Japanese-style area – last year we wanted to maximize the cultural experience and do things more catering to Japanese people. This year we wanted to hit up the world-renowned Niseko and neighboring Rusutsu. Niseko is by far the busiest most popular, international resort in Japan. Interesting facts, Niseko was second only to Washington State's Mount Baker for volume of snowfall in 2007, also appearing in a list of the world's top 10 ski resorts. We were joined by our buddies from Seattle, Jenny and Greg this year. I wanted them (and us!) to have the incredible traditional Japanese Ryokan experience while snowboarding. Nothing is better for tired muscles than onsen and turning up to dinner in what is essentially a fancy robe ("yukatta"). I found an incredible ryokan in the Annapuri side (quieter Japanese side) of Niseko – Iroha Yuyoda Ikoino Ryokan. Sipping our whiskey purchases in rooms overlooking Mount Yotei – the neighborhood breathtaking volcano, outdoor onsen in the gusting snow storms open nearly all hours of the day and night. Yoichi Nikka Whisky and Otaru on the way back to Sapporo. I could not ask for more.
I'll leave you with this. The West corners the market on badassery for the most part. However, as tiny as they are, whenever I see them, samurai suits and gear in museums gives me the "heebeejeebees." It is just scary. So, just like everything else, Japan yet again manages to "bookend" the rest of the world. Japan is more conservative AND more wacky, more innocent AND more terrifying than anything we can do in the West. $100 says you'll never find a cooler bottle of whisky.